Fever Pitch
New York ->
Phoenix ->
Las Vegas ->
D.C. ->
New York After a week of travel, lost luggage, sleeping in airports, and sitting through four hours of traffic, I am back in New York City. In the snow.
And I have lost my football virginity.

Cardinals Stadium in Glendale, Arizona

Leader of the Failed Fortune Tellers Association of America
Crowded house: 64,462 fans
It was a balmy 78º last Wednesday night; I wore white short sleeves, an act of incidental patriotism. The horrendous traffic on the I-10 and 101 N made me fifteen minutes late, so I parked haphazardly in the makeshift gravel lot, grabbed my bag, and raced about a quarter of a mile to the stadium. All around me swarmed fans dressed in green, white, and red. Some had painted faces; others waved Mexican flags in the air or wore them as capes. Some sprinted whilst the fatter, older ones walked at a leisurely pace. They wore jerseys with “R. Marquez” and “Fonseca” on the back. I heard distant chants of “Mé-xi-co! Mé-xi-co! Mé-xi-co!” tempered by the less frequent “U-S-A! U-S-A! U-S-A!” They donned Dr. Suess-like hats with a fiesta theme. They blew baritone horns in a call-and-answer pattern that vibrated through the air, deep into the night.
Breathless, I handed my ticket to the attendant and entered the University of Phoenix Stadium, home to next year’s Super Bowl. You know that scene in The Wizard of Oz when Dorothy first encounters the Land of Oz in its technicolor splendor? Where everything shimmers in emerald greens, brilliant blues, and all the colors of the rainbow? This was my experience. When I made it past the ticket stalls and pushed through the crowds, I caught a glimpse of the pitch. It was the most beautiful, vibrant expanse of green I had ever seen, radiating magnificently under the stadium lights.
I moved forward in a trance, ignoring the people in my way, until I made it to the edge of the seating area and concentrated on the 22 men traversing the pitch below. I had an intense need to see and know everything at once. My senses revealed their limitations. I watched the Mexican team push the ball forward in attack mode. I heard a collective inhale. I strained to find Bob Bradley. Where was Bocanegra? How was Hugo Sanchez dressed? Two little boys to my left waved a big sign in the air—what did it say? What play was the JumboTron showing? Was the guy wearing the Uncle Sam hat of Mexican descent? How much time was left? What were the Mexican fans yelling whenever Tim Howard kicked the ball? Was the crowd really doing the Wave?

Fans anticipate the approaching Wave
I snapped out of it and decided to find my seat. Almost everyone around me wore green; they yelled things in Spanish and cheered whenever Mexico gained possession of the ball. The Wave was indeed happening, and the crowd participated with unexpected fervor, urging multiple ripples around the stadium.
I hadn't done this since the bullfight in Spain!
The Brazilian chapter in The Thinking Fan’s Guide to the World Cup asserts that football writing tends to be more about the epiphenomenon of being a fan rather than the phenomenon of the game itself. I have been to basketball, baseball, hockey, and American football games. I’ve attended a rousing Agassi match during the U.S. Open; I’ve seen a bullfight in Spain; I’ve even been to the Olympics. But none of these experiences, despite their significance and popularity, comes close to the level of energy and excitement in the stadium that night.

Father introduces son to the greatest of pastimes
The football fan is essential to the game. I saw people paying as much attention to the pitch as to the people around them. They unfurled large banners and flags. They blew horns (incessantly). They laughed and threw their arms up for the Wave. They chanted songs and slogans. I now understand how violence can escalate to the levels recently seen in Italy and France. Stampedes and riots are merely a few steps beyond the acceptable and tenuous threshold of crowd behavior that Bill Buford identifies keenly in his description of group dynamics.
At a Yankees game, the crowd gets excited. But the energy generally flows in one direction: towards the field (save the experience of one unfortunate friend who had a hot dog flung at him during a Red Sox-Yankees match-up). Most people just eat, yell, and watch, mirroring the desultory pace of the sport.
Since the clock only stops at half-time and the end of the game in football, the crowd must focus. Scoring a goal is a rare and difficult thing. It’s not like making a shot in basketball. Buford describes the concept of “dead time” in football:
The goal itself is a see-through box of threads, and unless you are looking upon it from up high or into it from straight on or viewing it with the benefit of television cameras, you cannot tell when the ball has actually gone through and scored—until it has hit the back of the net. In every goal except the penalty kick, there is a small period of perception when there is neither goal nor no goal: dead time. Dead time is not a long time in clock time—there is the moment when the ball appears to be about to cross the line, and, later, there is the moment when it definitively hits or fails to hit the back of the net—but in any kind of emotional chronology it can seem endless.
The game’s constant motion, combined with the difficulty of scoring, serves up a concentrated, pent-up anticipation in search of release. When that release happens, as it did in the 52nd minute, the crowd exhibits signs of rage, disappointment, euphoria, and an intimacy amongst strangers that would be unacceptable under most circumstances. Landon Donovan assisted Jimmy Conrad to a 1-0 lead. 64,462 fans reacted. I found myself chanting, “U-S-A! U-S-A! U-S-A!” and high-fiving strangers. People hugged. Others threw their hands up in despair. I saw a wife comforting her crestfallen husband. When Donovan solidified victory with his 90’ goal, people chucked beers from the balcony above and the stadium bled green as Mexican fans clogged the aisles towards the exits.
Team USA heads toward the locker room (as Tim Howard hugs Bradley)
As for me, I stayed behind until a sweeper kicked me out. I sat in my seat reading a book under the stadium lights. It felt good to be there; 90 minutes is never enough.

Closing time
Labels: football, travel