a little bit of knowledge will destroy you Ensuing Hijinks: a little bit of knowledge will destroy you: July 2007

Wednesday, July 25, 2007

City in Progress

Tonight I read the latest issue of The Economist (“The Riddle of Iran” cover story) over one of the best deals in Chinatown: a huge bowl of steaming, fragrant vegetable phở. Broadcast played on my iPod as I broke off pieces of Thai basil to throw into my soup. I thought about some of the strange experiences I’ve had this week:
  • Today marked the second time in two days that I’ve approached a double-parked vehicle on the street to accept a wad of cash in exchange for a package. eBay sales are going well (even the fat Ronaldo jersey is selling). Police and onlookers, however, think differently.
  • I sat across from a middle-aged, African-American woman on the F train the other day. Her round, soft face framed by short hair and spectacles seemed unaccustomed to furrowed brows as she pored over her reading material with much intensity. I strained to see the thin book’s title, and eventually made out the words. I summoned all of my will power to keep a straight face.

    This book, sadly, does exist.

    The book reminds me of an irritating ad that kept popping up with every single Guardian article I read last month. If this is target marketing, something’s broken.
(Men probably withdraw because you’re willing to read this tripe)
  • In the LES today, I saw a guy ride by on a bike like this. Modded bicycles are all the rage.
How does one mount and even begin?
  • A tall Asian chick in bright clothes did lunges on the subway platform.

This last one was me. Noting my vast improvement yesterday, my physical therapist gave me a more challenging exercise: facing a wall, I place my big toe about one inch away from the wall; I bend my knee until it touches the wall. As I improve, I am to increase my distance from the wall. He said I could do this exercise anywhere: at my desk, waiting for the subway, or while having dinner. So, I have.

Physical therapy is nice. I like telling people that I’m going to see “my therapist.” For most of the session, I lie on the bed as he massages my feet and ankle (hey, I'll take what I can get).

“So how quickly do you want to play soccer again?” he asked, interrupting my reverie. “As soon as possible,” I replied, perhaps a little too eagerly. He laughed. “I’m going to have you do some drills in the next session where you will have to mimic the movements on a soccer field. If you don’t feel comfortable doing that in an artificial environment, then you’re not ready to play. Hesitation and fear of injury make the likelihood for re-injury even greater,” he explained.

So it looks like my American soccer career is officially over. I’m now training for the fall season of European footy. Stay tuned…

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Sunday, July 22, 2007

All the Meat You Can Eat

On the way to the Stephen Shore exhibit at the International Center of Photography today, Dave surreptitiously snapped a photo of me. Looking the other way for the train, I turned back just in time to find him pointing his bloody iPhone my way. I started to yell. That’s the moment he captured (you’ll notice I’m brace-free and wearing normal shoes again).

I cropped this photo because I am yelling some obscenity and I found it rather unflattering; the photographer liked how the blue in my shirt matched the columns. I told the photographer to sleep with one eye open tonight.

The ICP has a smaller version of Shore’s 1971 All the Meat You Can Eat along with works from Uncommon Places, American Surfaces (snapshots from 1972–1973) on display. They also have a room devoted to an interesting collection of Amelia Earhart photographs and another featuring some of David “Chim” Seymour’s incredibly moving work (there’s one particular photograph of a child worth seeing alone; it’s located in the immediate right corner as you enter the room).

U.S. 97, South of Klamath Falls, Oregon, July 21, 1973
© Stephen Shore

Prior to the museum, we stopped at the MoMA Design Store to look at all of the pleasing household goods and furniture, the huge Phaidon architectural atlas, and the Muji products downstairs. I’d been looking for portable stereo speakers for my laptop to take with me to Europe, but this is ridiculous. For $42.00, you can have cardboard speakers in a bag.

Party in a bag courtesy of Muji!

We tried to test it out with the iPhone, but the connection point did not fit. Note to Muji: always design things with Apple products in mind.

Friday night I officially parted ways with my pescetarian past and dined at a Brazilian churrascaria or rodizio, where you pay a set price and choose from a myriad of meats on sticks brought to your table. You indicate your desire for more meat by showing the green side of a card; the red side indicates you’re full or want a break (I needed many). They even had pão de queijo. We talked about feijoada, Belo Horizonte, football, those chocolate easter egg things, how chocolate just tastes better in Europe, and Buzios. The meal was delicious, and brought back fantastic memories of my trip to Brazil (including how my picture my ended up in a Rio de Janeiro newspaper).

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Thursday, July 19, 2007

Among the Thugs

Cyborgs, Inc.

The X-rays confirmed what I already knew: the accident on the soccer pitch hadn’t fractured my foot (a healthy dose of calcium and vitamin D all my life has certainly helped). But that didn’t stop my physical therapist from declaring, “You certainly did a good job of spraining your ankle badly.”

He wants me out of the aircast by Monday, when I’ll have my second session. “Muscles atrophy and grow dependent quickly, and to get them back to normal takes a long time,” he explained. Just yesterday, my regular doctor warned me that I’m done for the season, and that the ankle could still be aggravated six months from now. “You might be stepping off a curb six months from now and feel it wobble a bit.”

Someone who shall remain nameless remarked that I was “one step closer to being a cyborg” with my new black aircast. This same person also inadvertently caused my second injury tonight. I explained to him why I wasn’t too keen on telephone conversations. My phone manner, I revealed, had been described as “rude and abrupt” by several people. “What’s your point? You’re rude and abrupt in person,” he retorted. I made a quick movement near a wall and busted my hand as pictured.

Fresh blood

I’m falling apart.

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Tuesday, July 10, 2007

Day 3 (on crutches)

Today I took a cab to a sports doctor on W. 21st Street. The doctor wanted a detailed account of how I got the injury, including a history of injuries to the area (I had a bad sprain in the same area when I missed a flight of stairs at an old Penn frat house and landed on my ankle). I described the snapping sound I heard and what followed.

Then he asked me to remove the bandage as he seated himself on a stool before me. He started feeling my foot and pressing into it. “Does this hurt?” he asked whilst jabbing his thumb deep into the swollen and purple area near my ankle bone. “YES,” I grimaced, somewhat angrily. “How about this?” He did the same thing for another area. He started to pull my foot to feel its placement in the socket. This did not feel good. Feeling my foot tense up, he asked me to relax. There were several spots that didn’t hurt at all, though, and he seemed 95% certain that I didn’t have a fracture.

“However,” he paused. “In order for me to be 100% confident that you’re fracture-free, you have to pass several checkpoints. And one of them is being able to walk within fifteen minutes of the injury. Since you couldn’t do that, I want you to get an X-ray.” He also described an ankle stirrup aircast I would have to get. Then he asked me to form the alphabet by moving my foot around. He demonstrated first. I struggled to draw an “A” but he wasn’t satisfied. “You need to make a big ‘A,’ like this.” He demonstrated again. I remember disliking his socks, an argyle pattern in a dubious color scheme. After watching me struggle for several minutes, he suggested I begin physical therapy next week. I asked when I might expect to be back out on the pitch. He estimated at least a couple of weeks. I frowned.

The doctor showed me how to walk with my crutches whilst putting more weight on the injured foot. It made walking with crutches easier. My ankle felt much better today, so I hobbled over to Union Square to pick up an ankle brace at Paragon. The guy who helped me with the ankle stirrup smiled broadly when I stood up and walked without crutches for the first time in three days. “It’s a miracle!” he shouted. “I hope you at least scored the goal.” “I did,” I replied. As I waited in the queue, an older woman walked up to me and said, “Wow, I like the look of yours better than mine.” She pointed to her left foot, the size of a small cast iron soup pot, which had a pale blue plastic molding around it. We exchanged brief injury stories and said good-bye. Meeting people (with casts/crutches) is easy.

I went to a nearby café for a quiche, salad, and French lemonade; I hadn’t eaten all day. Hobbling is hard work. Then I limped over to Beth Israel Medical Center for Ambulatory Care across the park for my X-ray. Everything checked out fine, although I had wasted the entire day. My foot looked swollen from walking around in 90-degree weather. I went home and unwrapped my bandages. It did look worse than before (but I am getting better).

A deeper shade of eggplant

Swelling has migrated to other parts of my feet (granted, I was on my feet all day prior to this photo)

Bruising now shows up on the other side of my foot

I know there's nothing sexier than looking at my bruised and disgusting feet. For a good time, call me at 555-BRUZ.

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Monday, July 09, 2007

Lucky Number Seven

7/7/07 marked a propitious day for thousands of brides and grooms (including Tony Parker and Eva Longoria in Paris) and Vegas high rollersanyone playing the odds. But I think I had better luck on 6/6/06.

I arrived late to the weekly Prospect Park pickup game, which had recently moved from Sunday afternoons to Saturday mornings. Four games were already in full swing, with shirts v. orange pinnies in each quadrant. I decided to rest in the shade until the break.

I joined the pinnie team in Quadrant 2. The sweltering heat quickly turned my water bottle into a mini-greenhouse, as I chugged mouthfuls of warm liquid between plays. The sun was bright. People ran lethargically in the heat as blurry as desert mirages, united each week by the love of the game.

I exchanged playful trash-talk with this big, brawny guy called Jason. He and I had played together on the same team two weeks ago. He kept stepping on my feet and bumping into me. Eventually I scored an easy goal as we took advantage of our opponent’s weak defense. Jason joked that he had only allowed the goal to “give me something to talk about” when I got home. I laughed.

The euphoria was short-lived. I moved back to play defense. We had switched players with our opponents because they felt our side was too strong. They took one of our good players, who immediately began creating goal-scoring plays. One of their quicker players kept taking advantage of the center as our defense moved to the wings, leaving the guy completely open. I yelled, “Watch the guy in red!”

After they scored two successive goals, I decided to watch the guy in red. And that’s when it happened. I made a move to abruptly change direction. I heard something snap in my right foot. I went down in a flash. I remember a searing pain in my ankle and knew I couldn’t stand up. The game stopped. Everyone surrounded me, obscuring the bright sun as I looked up and saw silhouettes, not unlike the view from an operation table. It hurt. One guy told me not to touch it and not to move. Jason picked me up and carried me to the sidelines. Everyone followed.

I started to take off my sock, but felt a sharp pain. Alex tried to help me remove the sock. “This is hurting me more than it’s hurting you,” he said, as he watched me cringe. My ankle felt limp. The blood vessels in my foot surged as if my heart had relocated to my ankle. I removed the sock after gritting my teeth and feeling pain as something shifted in my ankle that probably shouldn’t have shifted. The tough part, though, would be removing the ankle strap. Maria suggested removing the stirrup and pulling it up on my calf instead. My eyes watered up from the sun, the sweat, and the pain. I didn’t look down, but I could tell by the crowd’s reaction that it wasn’t pretty.

Someone brought an ice pack; Alex placed it against my ankle and used my sock to create a makeshift bandage. I put my arms around Jason’s neck as he carried me the full width of the pitch and placed me gently on a bench in the shade. I felt terrible that he had to carry me. “It’s all right. You’re making me look good,” he said with a grin. Soon the other three games ended and everyone wanted to know what happened. I wasn’t sure how I’d get home. Walking was out of the question.

A nice Brazilian guy (the “guy in red,” in fact) offered to drive us to the LES. I made it home and Natalie went to the store to get me an ice pack, a bandage, and apples. After she left, I fell asleep with my ankle iced and elevated. I read up on ankle sprains and learned the best way to care for a sprain is called the PRINCE method: Protection, Rest, Ice, N (the technical name for the thing in Advil and Ibuprofen), Compression, and Elevation.

Day 1: A lovely swelling

Day 1: Ankle size comparison

Day 1: Since playing soccer, my feet have never looked more attractive

Day 2: Swelling gives way to bruising

Day 2: The swelling has reduced

Day 2: On a positive note, I do like the color purple

I decided to ignore the “R” component. I had tickets for the premiere of the spiegeltent at South Street Seaport and wasn’t about to miss it. After obtaining a pair of adjustable crutches, I donned a dress, wrapped my ankle, and took a cab to Pier 17. The spiegeltent, translated as “tent of mirrors” (and pronounced “SHPEE-gull-tent”), is a European phenomenon dating back to the 1900s; there are fewer than 20 antique spiegeltents left in the world. They’re made of mahogany, teak, stained glass, beads, brocade, velvet, and history (Marlene Dietrich supposedly performed in the particular tent we sat in that night). They seat a bit more than 300 people, thereby offering an intimate and oftentimes interactive theatrical experience. Our particular spiegeltent, shipped from Holland and pieced together in one day, was also air-conditioned.

Spiegeltent at South Street Seaport

A friend of a friend knows one of the producers, so I had free tickets. It was a hot item, with respectable standers-by asking repeatedly for extra tickets. When Dave brought over four tickets and two wristbands to me, a nosy WASPish woman walked over asking if he had any spare tickets. He said no. She said, “But it looks like you’re holding so many tickets.” I interjected and informed her that we had two tickets for each show, and then hobbled on.

New York City is not handicap-friendly. There are stairs for everythingthe subway, those hidden basement restaurants and bars, that fifth-floor walk-up. With crutches, everything became a struggle: people blocking the sidewalks or entrance ways, the elevator that was all the way on the other side of the mall at the seaport (for the bathroom), and the precarious wood-paneled floor of the tent, not to mention its dark corners and crevices.

Inside the spiegeltent

The mixed crowd had a lot of critics and press, along with friends of the producers

Stained glass above our booth

I received some sympathy. The first show, called “Absinthe,” began at 7:30 PM. When the hosts saw me hobble through the entrance, they immediately suggested I sit at one of the private booths for comfort. We chose a booth near the changing room. A trim, older man in a French-cuffed shirt sat there alone. I smiled at him; he smiled back. Dave went to get some drinks (I was so thirstywalking with crutches is hard work). The man and I began to talk. He had an accent. It sounded French or Belgian.

He insisted I sit on the other side so I could prop my leg up. “It will be more comfortable and you can see better.” I said, “But then you won’t be able to see as well.” He told me he’d be moving in and out anyway, and stood up. I moved over. Dave returned with drinks and the man departed. I commented at how nice he had been. The man returned and we chatted some more. “I am the director of the second show, ‘La Vie,’ so I’m kind of nervous. We are from Montreal. This is the world premierethe first time it will be shown in this setting. ‘La Vie’ has more of a story line than ‘Absinthe’ so I am curious to see how it works in this small space. I hope you will stay for the second show.”

The lights dimmed and “Absinthe” began. It’s a bit of a cabaret/circus, with different specialty acts: acrobatics, contortionists, two strip teases (which were absolutely brilliant and funny), juggling, and rollerskating (on the smallest surface possible). There’s quite a bit of nudity, comedy, and cussing. As a friend of mine said, “It’s like a debauched Cirque du Soleil on speed.”

The bawdy emcee, called The Gazillionaire, took cracks at people in the audience. He called one woman a bitch, and singled out NY Daily News' Ben Widdicombe as a potential gay. [lifted from Gawker, also present at the premiere]

Circus acts can be mundane and boring, especially with the glut of Cirque du Soleil shows out there. But the performers of “Absinthe” were so finely tuned for each specialty, it was mesmerizing. And some of these people were so fit and sublimely beautiful, it was enough to make everyone hot and bothered, even in the air-conditioned atmosphere. The music, unlike Cirque, was fantastic. They sampled songs from Portishead, Marlene Dietrich, and Donny Hathaway.

An acrobat drops in. I will mention the two women to the left later on (a.k.a. cleavage woman and Kim Cattrall doppelgänger) [again lifted from Gawker; photography was not allowed]

In one act, a woman in a clingy, barely-there sparkly dress and high heels appeared to the right with a giant pink bubble held over her head. She gracefully walked onto the stage and glided along, moving the bubble in swirling motions to the nostalgic tune of “Moon River.” I thought, “That dress is about to fall off.” The right strap barely covered her breast. Still, her costume and body managed to suggest a 1920s flapper girl, simultaneously demure and seductive, hailing from a glamorous, bygone era, rather than the tawdriness that can be found at Scores or in any lad mag. As she moved about the stage with the giant balloon, I began to wonder, “What’s her specialty? Where is this going? Dancing around a bubble can’t be it.” She removed something from the balloon and tossed it to a member of the audience.

And thenas if to answer my questionsin a swift and elegant move, her head was inside the bubble! The audience gasped and laughed. Her levity and playfulness filled the room. That clingy dress fell to the floor with ease, exposing her perfectly pert, unsurgically-enhanced breasts and sparkly-thonged bottom. Then half her body was in the bubble. She kicked off her shoes. She wiggled even more as the music approached its climax. Soon the bubble enveloped her entirely. She writhed in the bubble as it began to fog up and turn opaque. The audience struggled to see what was happening inside the bubble. As the music reached its climax, the woman reached up to the top of the bubble as it stretched to an oval shape. And then “POP!”the bubble burst, revealing her body fully to us. It was ingenious and titillating.

What’s hotter than thrusting yourself in a balloon and removing your clothes? I don’t know. [lifted from Gawker]

In the next act, as if to reward the ladies in the audience, a man wearing pajamas approached the stage. He lifted himself gracefully onto a set of iron rods with pads on them, jumping up into handstands and arches using one hand only. As he did so, his pajama top gave way to reveal one of the fittest bodies I have ever seen. Dave and I laughed as we watched the older women in the front row gasp, smile, and whisper to one another. The aforementioned Kim Cattrall look-alike in a green dress just couldn’t wipe a huge grin off her face. Her friend, sporting much cleavage in a short black number, put her hand over her open mouth during the entire performance. And yesin case you were wonderinghe was worth it.

Olaf Triebel has a body built for one thing. That’s right: balancing

The striptease woman did another comical, genius number that I’ll keep to myself. A comedy routine consisting of a man, who looked like Borat with long hair, and a woman in a huge 80s hair frosted wig danced onto the stage. The announcer described them as “La Petite Merde” (yes, “Little Shit”), ex Cirque du Soleil performers from Reno. And then there were the two female acrobats. They moved in unison, showing incredible strength and graceful movements that almost seemed inhuman. Impossible to describe justly, it’s something that has to be seen to be believed, an artwork of the human form that can never be completely replicated or sustained.

A scary striptease; again, pure genius

Moulin Rouge in living color; the two amazing acrobats are to the left in white

Dave snaps a photo with his Canon SLR

Intermission for “Absinthe”

The break between shows meant a laborious journey to the loo on the second floor of the Seaport Mall. I had to hop up and down some stairs on my left leg. It took a good fifteen minutes to get back to the tent, when I felt someone’s hand rest upon my back as I hobbled by. “What on earth happened to you?” said a man in a familiar Scottish accent. It was Mark, one of the producers, whom I had met on the Federer shoot in Los Angeles. I gave him a quick rundown of my footy accident, and then he shuttled me along quickly since the next show was about to start.

“La Vie” took us on a trip to purgatory. Each person received a lottery ticket as he entered the tent. The audience is transported on a flight through the afterlife, where we feel no pleasure or pain (I wished, as I looked down at my throbbing ankle). Our guide, a bald, supercilious Frenchman, guided us through the files of several case studies, not unlike the Japanese film “After Life.” As one of the creators described it, “La Vie” is “dark” but also “life-affirming.” The characters interact with audience members during and between each performance. There’s a bendy girl who gives an intriguing performance in a straitjacket, set to the tune of Patsy Cline’s “Crazy.” There’s an incredibly attractive and fit man who performs out of a wheelchair (which I was tempted to steal so I wouldn’t have to use crutches anymore). He was so good-looking that I saw several women AND men whisper to each other in astonishment. We are told he was the young CEO of an airline company, and that in order to increase profit margins, he approved the use of substandard materials to build his fleet. 154 passengers died in a plane crash as a result.

The acrobatics in “La Vie” aren’t as dazzling as “Absinthe,” but the eight performers are much more versatile. The wheelchair man put “Dancing with the Stars” to shame as he performed an acrobatic tango with three different women. Our French guide, who looked a bit tubby, surprised us all in some of the most athletically challenging numbers of the evening.

In the end, I’m not sure what the departing message was about the afterlife and our earthly passions and foibles, but we were thoroughly entertained. The shows made me contemplate the range of possibilities that make the human body so wonderful, especially in the light of my injury. After exiting the biergarten, I noticed a lighted sign across the water showing it was 76 degrees. The night was perfectly still and beautifulthe price to pay, I guess, for dreadfully hot summer days. The bad balances out the good, and sometimes making the joyful stuff possible. There is no pleasure without pain; the alternative is a purgatory here on earth, in which one feels nothing and therefore knows nothing worthwhile. Or, maybe I was just high on painkillers and absinthe.

We took a cab to Blue Ribbon and enjoyed a very late night meal. I was famished from my day’s whirlwind adventuresthe highs and lowswhich began at 8:30 AM. Was it worth hobbling around around on crutches to see the shows? You bet. Life is indeed a cabaret.

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Thursday, July 05, 2007

The Science of Food at wd~50

I’ve lived around the block from the well-regarded, Michelin star-earning restaurant, wd~50, for almost two years now. A visit from my sister last week finally gave me an excuse to dine in the peculiar space on Clinton Street with the small florescent sign.

This is no ordinary restaurant. If you’re looking for something familiar and comfortable, go to Gramercy Tavern. In the spirit of Ferran Adrià’s famed El Bulli, wd~50 is an innovator, mixing unexpected flavors and textures whilst experimenting with the latest techniques in food preparation (think foam and shapes worthy of DIY art school projects). All four of us opted for the nine-course tasting menu. The kitchen easily accommodated a pescetarian alternative for me.

Here is what chef Wylie Dufresne & Co. prepared for our gastronomic adventure (click any photo to enlarge):

Course 1: Sepia, hibiscus, garlic crumble
[basically some kind of fish with a flavorful garnish; a nice starter]

Course 2: Shrimp and tarragon macaroons
[that’
s crisp sesame flat bread in the background; my sister says it “tastes like popcorn”]

These macaroons aren’t like the ones found in Paris. With incredible texture (reminiscent of those styrofoam balls you spray-painted to look like planets for your 4th grade science project), they dissolve in your mouth, leaving nothing but intense flavor. The plateware itself often became a topic of conversation. This particular plate angled towards the diner, submerging half a macaroon within its depths.

Course 3: Foie gras in the round

It’s dippin’ dots, foie gras of the future. There are four flavors in this dish, each represented by a color. One is foie gras, the green is mint, I believe, and I don’t remember the other one. The only element that mattered to me were the dark brown globular bits of Valrhona chocolate. This dish wasn’t on my menu, but I had to try it. We all agreed that the flavors magically manifested themselves in distinct order, with the Valrhona chocolate saving itself for last. It’s like that three-course-dinner gum that turns Violet Beauregarde into a giant blueberry in Charlie and the Chocolate Factory. A+ for innovation and taste.

Course 3 (pescetarian): gazpacho (with scallops? Whatever it was, it was delicious)


Course 4: Sweetbreads, cabbage-kaffir, water chestnuts
[the others reported that this tasted very good, especially the kaffir]


Course 4 (pescetarian): Octopus with Campari-infused shreds of lychee

The Campari overwhelmed the other flavors, but then again, I like Campari.

Course 5: Beef tongue, fried cubes of mayo, tomato molasses

Our waiter explained that this dish represents a beef tongue sandwich. You have your beef tongue, mayonnaise, and sauce sans bread. This one earned enthusiastic thumbs-ups from our carnivores, with the fried mayo being the pièce de résistance.

Course 5 (pescetarian): Poached egg

This dish’s looks exceeded the taste. You can only dress up an egg so much, and the powdery gray piles were too salty.

Course 6: French onion soup
[a new take on a classic]


Course 6 (pescetarian): Pretzel matzo ball soup with mustard greens in a beer broth

The concept behind this high-brow soup? Pretzels, mustard, and beer. I liked it, although the pretzel matzo balls were a bit too salty. I did crave a beer, though. Oh whom am I kidding? I was drunk after my first few sips of wine.

Course 7: Surf clam, watermelon, garlic chive, fermented black bean

This was the only course I disliked; the rest of the table agreed. The fermented black beans (and I love black beans) were too strong and overpowered the rest of the dish. The fishy taste of the clams really clashed with the watermelon. While this dinner brought together flavors I probably have never encountered before, this is a medley best enjoyed in separate spurts.

Course 8: Lamb belly, black chickpea, cherried cucumber


Course 8 (pescetarian): Salmon with some starchy corn fried thing

Descriptions of the pescetarian offerings are scant because the printout menu I received only contains the traditional tasting menu items. So I'm not exactly sure of the green stuff’s origin, but it was some kind of chopped up vegetable. The black things are a fried corn fritter of sorts, and it was delicious. The salmon was dressed in an unfamiliar sauce that made the fish look nuclear magenta instead of traditional pink. It was a bit sweet for my tastes. I was very drunk and full by this course, and my senses were still navigating through the challenging yet exhilarating degustation.

And now for the desserts.

Dessert Course 1: Argan oil horchata, cantaloupe, carob

Is there a way to make horchata better? 27-year-old pastry chef Alex Stupak thinks so. One thing the service could improve upon here is a thorough explanation of each dish. Some descriptions were muttered or not delivered at all. And the explanations would come from different wait staff, which, while creating an egalitarian air, also confused us as to whom to rely on for ultimate culinary guidance. That is a shame, for this restaurant has some of the most inventive dishes in the city. Explanations need to go beyond the mundane “He added a touch of Spanish saffron to the sauce.”

As my spoon dipped into this horchata, it uncovered a piece of iced cantaloupe along with pockets of some delightful spice (which I guess is carob). This dessert is a chilled delight, bringing renewed pleasure and discovery with every bite.

I never got to sample former wd~50 pastry chef Sam Mason's legendary desserts, but after my experience here, Alex Stupak can butter my muffins any day.

Dessert Course 2: Fried butterscotch pudding, mango, taro, smoked macadamia

This was my favorite. Can it get any more decadent than fried butterscotch pudding? When you add slivers of fresh mango, toasted macadamia nut shavings, and sculpted ice cream, the answer is “Yes, yes, oh yes.” Dangerously approaching stomach capacity, I asked one of our servers, “How many more courses are left?” He replied, “Just three more” and then laughed at my look of horror. He was joking.

The fried butterscotch pudding deserves a closer look:

Heaven can wait


Dessert Course 3: Soft chocolate, avocado, licorice, lime

The ingredient list sounds like a dessert disaster in the making. I generally detest licorice, too. But this rich chocolate ganache (that he’s managed to craft into a swirly, edible sculpture) is exquisite with its discrete elements, most notably the lime.

It was time to admit defeat: I put my fork down and let the vultures move in.

Me (with unidentified guest) basking in the unconventional feast’s afterglow

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The Likely Lads

I know a good thing when I see it. And two years ago, I saw it. Just look at them now (homage to the Pet Shop Boys for their new HBO series):